2016-04-03 The speech about our expedition on festival Hory a mesto!
Already next Saturday 4.9.2016 at 16 o'clock I will talk about our expedition at the prestigious festival of mountain films and adventure Hory a mesto, which will take place in Bratislava's Aupark. Come and see the festival full of adrenaline! I'm looking forward to see you there :-)
2016-04-03 A speech on the festival Ďumbierfest in Brezno
After two years a mountain festival Ďumbierfest returns back to Brezno. And I will show there my presentation about our expedition too. The festival begins 22/04/2016 and my speech is scheduled at 18 o'clock. See you at the festival!
2016-01-27 The story about our expedition in Slovenka magazine
I am very glad that a story about our expedition was published in well know Slovakian magazine Slovenka. Also there, you could find details about our ascend and many other interesting details. The story was published in 3rd issue 2016. Thank you!
2016-01-10 Our story in a Sunday issue of Novy Cas
Very nice indeed, was an issue of our story on Broad Peak in a bigger Sunday issue of newspaper Novy Cas. The story was printed on 2 and half pages and you can find all details about our experience on Broad Peak. Big thank you for your interest.
2016-01-01 Extra plus has published an article about us /shortly after New Year/
I am very pleased, that even well know Slovakian magazine Extra plus had been interested in our expedition and published 4pages large story in their January issue. There too, you can find except an article, some of the best photos taken on the expedition in Karakoram. I was very happy to share this story with you all. Thank you!
2015-12-26 A story about our expedition in the magazin Maxim
Very first after-expedition story about our climbing was published in Maxim - the paper printed magazine. The article is full of interesting facts and details that the author asked me for. You can find all that in their January edition. Thank you for your interest.
Already next Saturday 4.9.2016 at 16 o'clock I will talk about our expedition at the prestigious festival of mountain films and adventure Hory a mesto, which will take place in Bratislava's Aupark. Come and see the festival full of adrenaline! I'm looking forward to see you there :-)
2016-04-03 A speech on the festival Ďumbierfest in Brezno
After two years a mountain festival Ďumbierfest returns back to Brezno. And I will show there my presentation about our expedition too. The festival begins 22/04/2016 and my speech is scheduled at 18 o'clock. See you at the festival!
2016-01-27 The story about our expedition in Slovenka magazine
I am very glad that a story about our expedition was published in well know Slovakian magazine Slovenka. Also there, you could find details about our ascend and many other interesting details. The story was published in 3rd issue 2016. Thank you!
2016-01-10 Our story in a Sunday issue of Novy Cas
Very nice indeed, was an issue of our story on Broad Peak in a bigger Sunday issue of newspaper Novy Cas. The story was printed on 2 and half pages and you can find all details about our experience on Broad Peak. Big thank you for your interest.
2016-01-01 Extra plus has published an article about us /shortly after New Year/
I am very pleased, that even well know Slovakian magazine Extra plus had been interested in our expedition and published 4pages large story in their January issue. There too, you can find except an article, some of the best photos taken on the expedition in Karakoram. I was very happy to share this story with you all. Thank you!
2015-12-26 A story about our expedition in the magazin Maxim
Very first after-expedition story about our climbing was published in Maxim - the paper printed magazine. The article is full of interesting facts and details that the author asked me for. You can find all that in their January edition. Thank you for your interest.
2015-11-23 Climbing story
To climb an eight thousand high peak was my aim a long time ago and because
Broad Peak, on Pakistani-Chinese border, suited me not only by its' difficulty
but also by climbing season, I started organizing an expedition. What I didn't
plan at all was, that I will attempt to climb it with a bicycle!
With its height of 8,050 meters, it is the 12th highest peak in the world and it proudly stands out on the Pakistanis' Karakoram mountains. It is also called K3, which is likely name after its' famous neighbor K2, which is only few kilometers away and is considered the most difficult 8-thousander in the world.
With its height of 8,050 meters, it is the 12th highest peak in the world and it proudly stands out on the Pakistanis' Karakoram mountains. It is also called K3, which is likely name after its' famous neighbor K2, which is only few kilometers away and is considered the most difficult 8-thousander in the world.
Bike idea
A New Zealander Nathan Dahlberg decided to join me and as a former Tour de France cyclist, he suggested that we can 610 km journey from Islamabad to the mountain, ride on bicycles. The plan failed because of the security situation in Pakistan, but the idea transformed into climbing the mountain with a bike! Surprisingly, we didn't get such a crazy idea as the first people in the world... We even found out that there is a valid Guinness record with a cycling in height of 7211 meters. When Bulgarian climber Dimitar Kamburov joined our final team, we started with the all preparations.
Simultaneously with a training in mountains with 30 kg backpack, climbing 4000m mountains with a bike on my shoulders, strength and endurance training I started organizing an expedition: choosing an agency in Pakistan, applying for climbing permits, finding sponsors, promotion, time schedule organization, buying new climbing gear, finding a proper bicycle, finding out information about Pakistan, gathering advices from experienced climbers and many other necessary organizing before such a difficult expedition.
A New Zealander Nathan Dahlberg decided to join me and as a former Tour de France cyclist, he suggested that we can 610 km journey from Islamabad to the mountain, ride on bicycles. The plan failed because of the security situation in Pakistan, but the idea transformed into climbing the mountain with a bike! Surprisingly, we didn't get such a crazy idea as the first people in the world... We even found out that there is a valid Guinness record with a cycling in height of 7211 meters. When Bulgarian climber Dimitar Kamburov joined our final team, we started with the all preparations.
Simultaneously with a training in mountains with 30 kg backpack, climbing 4000m mountains with a bike on my shoulders, strength and endurance training I started organizing an expedition: choosing an agency in Pakistan, applying for climbing permits, finding sponsors, promotion, time schedule organization, buying new climbing gear, finding a proper bicycle, finding out information about Pakistan, gathering advices from experienced climbers and many other necessary organizing before such a difficult expedition.
Chain of bad luck
Finally, the day D came 11 months later. Unfortunately, some bad luck started to mark our adventure too. Already at the airport in Islamabad, they did not want to give me my luggage due to customs and told me to come on the next Monday. Three days later, I spent 2.5hours going from one office to another and I needed 14 signatures and stamps, to get my luggage back.
That's why I met my climbing partners in a small town Skardu two days later and where I had to get by myself.
Finally, the day D came 11 months later. Unfortunately, some bad luck started to mark our adventure too. Already at the airport in Islamabad, they did not want to give me my luggage due to customs and told me to come on the next Monday. Three days later, I spent 2.5hours going from one office to another and I needed 14 signatures and stamps, to get my luggage back.
That's why I met my climbing partners in a small town Skardu two days later and where I had to get by myself.
A long journey on broken roads didn't rise my mood either. It
was in the time of Ramadan when nobody can eat any meal from sunrise to sunset.
When I traveled on a minibus, I fell asleep our two meal-stops and so, I was
starving whole two days without any food.
As it is very common in Pakistan, these roads are swept away by landslides or are blocked by tons of fallen rocks. In my case it all happened at 11 at night and I had to carry all my 72 kg luggage over slipping stones falling of the cliffs and through ice-cold water creek that caused the landslide.
As it is very common in Pakistan, these roads are swept away by landslides or are blocked by tons of fallen rocks. In my case it all happened at 11 at night and I had to carry all my 72 kg luggage over slipping stones falling of the cliffs and through ice-cold water creek that caused the landslide.
Obviously, nobody was waiting for me on the other side of
the landslide and I didn't even have any mobile. Fortunately, people around
were very nice and helped me even though we did not understand a single word
each other.
It took another six hours from Skardu on jeep and by very dirty and dusty road,
until we get to a small village Askole. Again, we experienced some landslides,
fallen rocks and even fallen bridge, so we had to change jeeps and change our
all luggage with us every time. At some
points we had to get out of our jeep and cross wild, ice-cold river on feet, as
it was too dangerous to do it by car...
A small, poor village welcomed us with many children around and
we slept in their flimsy school building. From there our long march to base
camp begun. Very long five days in 37 °C on the sun, but also freezing nights
on the glacier and crossing ice-cold rivers, finally ended up in the base camp.
I had bought small hiking boots on the last moment, which proved to be a big mistake and so after the first day I had to replaced them with casual shoes, which are used for shopping in a city. I had to walk in them, all the way along the glacier and through their narrow sole I felt every single stone I stepped on.
I had bought small hiking boots on the last moment, which proved to be a big mistake and so after the first day I had to replaced them with casual shoes, which are used for shopping in a city. I had to walk in them, all the way along the glacier and through their narrow sole I felt every single stone I stepped on.
Bad news
Straight at our arrival we got welcome news that that day, seven climbers were buried in an avalanche and one body was never found. One of the climbers suffered an open fracture on her leg and had to wait for helicopter two and half days because of the bad weather. We have never heard if her leg was finally saved or not.
Straight at our arrival we got welcome news that that day, seven climbers were buried in an avalanche and one body was never found. One of the climbers suffered an open fracture on her leg and had to wait for helicopter two and half days because of the bad weather. We have never heard if her leg was finally saved or not.
After these news, my two climbing partners got scared and I had to persuade
them to climb. Two days later, we were already climbing up through soft snow to
the First camp.It is this section of Broad Peak, that is the most dangerous
because of constant avalanches and continuously falling stones. Moreover, we
had to cross spiky glacial field and its' wild water streams.
Most expeditions use high altitude porters to carry their luggage, but we carried our excessively heavy backpacks all by ourselves.
Most expeditions use high altitude porters to carry their luggage, but we carried our excessively heavy backpacks all by ourselves.
First accident
I had climbed to the first camp alone as I tried to get
there before the hottest part of the day, but my two climbing partners didn't
come there that day at all. Nathan found it difficult to climb on soft snow and
therefore he tried to climb on nearby rocks. Unfortunately, he lost there his
balance and making somersaults he fell 30m down. Unfortunately, after one of his
somersaults he smashed his head on rock and in a moment his whole face was
covered in blood. Dimitar, who fortunately climed next to him, came to help him
straight after the fall. Nathan was still conscious and managed to descend back
to base camp with the assistance of Dimitar. From there, they had to trek
another 4 kilometers over the glacier to the K2 Base camp where was a doctor
who sew Nathan's wound with 4 stitches.
When Nathan was falling, he lost his backpack in which he
had his passport, money, sleeping bag and important things for climbing, so for
him climbing on Broad Peak definitively finished.
Later, it had took him another five weeks to arrange a new passport
so he could fly back home to New Zealand.
As a pay off for all his determination and effort, he managed to make a Guinness record for the first cycling on velocipede in the level of 4645 meters.
As a pay off for all his determination and effort, he managed to make a Guinness record for the first cycling on velocipede in the level of 4645 meters.
A solo climb
I heard all those news via radio in the First camp, where I slept 3 nights for acclimatization. After that I ascend to the Second camp where I stayed another two days. Acclimatization is in fact a very important part of climbing and its' underestimation can cause serious problems, as bleeding into your brain, your lungs, or even the worst - can cause the death.
Our place for a tent was in a quite steep slope and only one meter from the main rope, but it offered beautiful views of surrounding peaks with a valley glacier.
Until then, the weather was more less sunny, but the forecast for the following days predicted some snowstorms. Therefore, instead of proceeding to the Camp three, I decided to descend back to the Base camp.
I heard all those news via radio in the First camp, where I slept 3 nights for acclimatization. After that I ascend to the Second camp where I stayed another two days. Acclimatization is in fact a very important part of climbing and its' underestimation can cause serious problems, as bleeding into your brain, your lungs, or even the worst - can cause the death.
Our place for a tent was in a quite steep slope and only one meter from the main rope, but it offered beautiful views of surrounding peaks with a valley glacier.
Until then, the weather was more less sunny, but the forecast for the following days predicted some snowstorms. Therefore, instead of proceeding to the Camp three, I decided to descend back to the Base camp.
Smashed bike
Another accident happened to me in the Base camp. Right next to my tent was standing about 2 tons big and heavy boulder on which I leaned my bike. In the moment, when I was looking for something in my tent, the stone fell, rolled over my bicycle and completely crushed it. It took us two hours to pull the bike from under the boulder, but broken and bent wheels and ruined bike frame, didn't give me too much hope to make a record on it. After a lot of effort and improvising, I finally managed to repair bike into a state, that I could possible make some cycling on it.
Another accident happened to me in the Base camp. Right next to my tent was standing about 2 tons big and heavy boulder on which I leaned my bike. In the moment, when I was looking for something in my tent, the stone fell, rolled over my bicycle and completely crushed it. It took us two hours to pull the bike from under the boulder, but broken and bent wheels and ruined bike frame, didn't give me too much hope to make a record on it. After a lot of effort and improvising, I finally managed to repair bike into a state, that I could possible make some cycling on it.
Ascend in a dark
Two rest days in the Base camp gave me enough energy for climbing again, so I went back to the slopes also with the bike on my shoulders. This time, I was climbing only with Dimitar. With all our effort we managed to reach the Second camp already on the same day, but very late - after dusk. Climbing that day was extremely difficult mainly because of soft snow and high temperatures, which reached around 18° C on the sun. In some sections I had to trudge through thigh-deep snow and in other sections (where the slope was so steep that the snow couldn't stay there) I had to strongly kick my boots to the slope so at least my two front crampons teeth could hold my weight. My toes hurts a lot from kicking into glacier but there were no place to rest in these up to 70 ° steep slopes. My lips were bleeding and cracked and I could barely catch the breath because of such thin air. I had got completely exhausted until I got to the Second camp so all what I managed then, was crawling straight into my sleeping bag. I tried to get in contact with Dimitar, but there was no answer in a radio. So I tried few times to call his name into darkness but without any response. When I was just about going out to look for him, he finally called on radio and came to the tent quite late - in a pitch dark evening...
Two rest days in the Base camp gave me enough energy for climbing again, so I went back to the slopes also with the bike on my shoulders. This time, I was climbing only with Dimitar. With all our effort we managed to reach the Second camp already on the same day, but very late - after dusk. Climbing that day was extremely difficult mainly because of soft snow and high temperatures, which reached around 18° C on the sun. In some sections I had to trudge through thigh-deep snow and in other sections (where the slope was so steep that the snow couldn't stay there) I had to strongly kick my boots to the slope so at least my two front crampons teeth could hold my weight. My toes hurts a lot from kicking into glacier but there were no place to rest in these up to 70 ° steep slopes. My lips were bleeding and cracked and I could barely catch the breath because of such thin air. I had got completely exhausted until I got to the Second camp so all what I managed then, was crawling straight into my sleeping bag. I tried to get in contact with Dimitar, but there was no answer in a radio. So I tried few times to call his name into darkness but without any response. When I was just about going out to look for him, he finally called on radio and came to the tent quite late - in a pitch dark evening...
Snow storms
Our plan was to have one rest day in the Second camp and then climb up to the Camp three. Unfortunately, the weather completely changed against us - some snowstorms came, it started to snow heavily, avalanches were continuously falling and there was only 20m visibility. The more snow was falling, the more our mood was going down. We persistently waited five days in a tent for better weather, every night waking up at 3 o'clock in the morning just to open our tent and to see more snow and heavy fog-cloud around us.
Our plan was to have one rest day in the Second camp and then climb up to the Camp three. Unfortunately, the weather completely changed against us - some snowstorms came, it started to snow heavily, avalanches were continuously falling and there was only 20m visibility. The more snow was falling, the more our mood was going down. We persistently waited five days in a tent for better weather, every night waking up at 3 o'clock in the morning just to open our tent and to see more snow and heavy fog-cloud around us.
On top of it, my health was getting worse as I had got
painful cough with spasms in my stomach, that worsen and didn't allow me even
to sleep properly. Finally, because of lack of time and because of fixed
flights back home, we were forced to descent down.
On the fifth day, just for my better feeling, I made my personal record in cycling at 6186 meters.
On the fifth day, just for my better feeling, I made my personal record in cycling at 6186 meters.
On the edge of
complete exhaustion
To our big surprise was the descent much more difficult, than climbing up. Avalanches buried the ropes and we had to pull them up from frozen snow all the way down.
To our big surprise was the descent much more difficult, than climbing up. Avalanches buried the ropes and we had to pull them up from frozen snow all the way down.
Bad luck didn't leave us even on the way down. Dimitar was
going ahead of me so he was pulling rope up from the frozen snow. In one moment
he pulled broken rope up and in split of second he slipped from rope and fell
down. Firstly, I didn't notice it as I was concentrating on my steps down, but
at one point I didn't see Dimitar in front of me.
Only after another moment my sight caught his body sliding
down extremely steep slope, doing flips over, somersaults , it flew up into the
air and crashed on the rocks. I wanted to shout at him, but the lack of oxygen
and bad cough halt me completely. He stopped after falling some 350 meters and
only a few meters before the cliff edge! He didn't move and I felt my greatest
sadness I ever had in the mountains. Only after a few seconds, he raised his
hand and some minute later he slowly stand up to his feet. I wanted to rush
down to help him, but the fear from what I had just seen, tied my hands. I was
extremely careful and I was also expecting broken rope every time when I pulled
rope up. The sight before was freighting me a lot.
I got to Dimitar only one hour later. Miraculously, he had nothing broken, only some bruises, pain
in his arms and semi-dislocated ankle. He also lost few things from backpack,
but fortunately he was still able to continue in our way down.
As the time passed, our strength was weakening disproportionally. We were coming down slower and slower until we got to the point, when we were more resting than going down. Pulling the rope from under deep snow was getting harder and sometimes I had to pull rope towards me with both hands. I have never been so exhausted in my whole life. I was fixed to the rope, standing next to rock wall and I was not able even make one single step. We started to get spasms into our hands from how we were strongly holding the rope so we couldn't rely on our hands any more.
As the time passed, our strength was weakening disproportionally. We were coming down slower and slower until we got to the point, when we were more resting than going down. Pulling the rope from under deep snow was getting harder and sometimes I had to pull rope towards me with both hands. I have never been so exhausted in my whole life. I was fixed to the rope, standing next to rock wall and I was not able even make one single step. We started to get spasms into our hands from how we were strongly holding the rope so we couldn't rely on our hands any more.
I wanted to have a rest, but in this section, there was not even a place
where we could sit. After hours of fighting with the last power, I had came to a
rock on which I could sat down and I drank the last two sips of tea from my
thermos. We had nothing to drink and we were completely exhausted. At that
moment I thought, that I will not manage it all the way down for sure. To get
to the Base camp, we still had to climb down on vertical wall, cross steep
avalanche field, cross the glacier river and finally go across labyrinth of
family-house-big hills on the glacier. Only behind all this was our Base camp. The
two sips of tea had given me a bit of power to come down on the glacier, where we melted snow
and together we drunk two liters of hot water. There we found out, that we were
absolutely dehydrated and that was the cause of our spasms and such rapid weakness.
On the last section, we had no longer power to even pull the rope from under
snow and so we were descending un-fixed to any rope.
Crossing a glacier
river
The labyrinth of icebergs across the glacier was chaotically surrounded by cold streams, that after lunch had changed into wild roaring rivers. Crossing them was risk-taking life action as slipping into such wild ice cold water meant certain death and fast sweeping of your body directly under the glacier.
Our cook and porters, came to help us from the Base camp. They helped us to anchor the rope on other side of the river, pulled through our backpacks and we climbed over a snow bridge with a wild icy river under.
The labyrinth of icebergs across the glacier was chaotically surrounded by cold streams, that after lunch had changed into wild roaring rivers. Crossing them was risk-taking life action as slipping into such wild ice cold water meant certain death and fast sweeping of your body directly under the glacier.
Our cook and porters, came to help us from the Base camp. They helped us to anchor the rope on other side of the river, pulled through our backpacks and we climbed over a snow bridge with a wild icy river under.
Very slowly, we finally came into our Base camp. We were
cold and our backs hurt from the heavy rucksacks. After very delicious meal and
plenty of hot tea, all what we managed was to crawl into our sleeping bags.
Our heads were full of thoughts on the way back. After such a big effort we
felt disappointed. We had enough strength, determination and stamina to go higher,
but Broad Peak was very mean to climbers this year. Out of all 49 climbers,
only two of them stood on the summit, but we were not the chosen ones.
As one quote says "the most important at high-altitude expeditions is to get safely back", so in those terms we succeeded. Even I didn't break the Guinness World record this time, it is still not over yet. I hope, that with some luck I can find a sponsor and then I would like to attempt for the same record in Nepal, on Cho-Oyu mountain... I hope that with some luck I would manage to succeed the next time.
As one quote says "the most important at high-altitude expeditions is to get safely back", so in those terms we succeeded. Even I didn't break the Guinness World record this time, it is still not over yet. I hope, that with some luck I can find a sponsor and then I would like to attempt for the same record in Nepal, on Cho-Oyu mountain... I hope that with some luck I would manage to succeed the next time.
2015-10-17 Radio Slovakia will broadcast an interview about our expedition on 17.october at 17:25
A little
bit more in detail, you can listen story about our expedition on Radio Slovakia already
this
Saturday at 17:25 in a program called "Cestovateľské kino".
At the
same time you can have a look at some photographs of our expedition in the radio's archive.
2015-10-12 An interview on Radio FM
On Monday
12.october you could listen some short interviews with me on Radio FM, where I shortly informed about our
expedition results and probably I had got some additional climbing
partner...;-) Thank you for listening.
My
sponsor Garmin informs about our expedition results in short
story on QQ website
(alternative of WhatsUp mobile app). They also attached some nice promotional photos. Thank you a lot!
2015-09-24 Presentation on the
festival HOROMIL
Because of a very sad reason, I was unable
to give a speech about the Broad Peak expedition. The festival Horomil took
place in Povazska Bystrica and I believe that it went well... Once again, I apologize
for my absence and thank you for the invitation!
2015-09-07 An
interview for the local TV station Mestská
televízia Ružomberok
A short
interview for RKTV might be more joyful, if I had managed at
least one of my expedition goals. However, I am still very grateful for the RKTV interest and I hope that we will make more interviews about successful
expeditions in the future. Thank you
Almost straight after the expedition I was
invited into a program 'Life of adventurers' where I
talked not only about our expedition, but also about my personal view of
extreme sports... You can still watch the program in the TA3 television archives. Thank you for the invitation.
E Q U I P M E N T R E V I E W S
40
BELOW
- overboots
I didn't feel any
worries for high top climbing as I knew, that I have very warm feet protection!
Overboots fit perfectly to my climbing shoes and if felt very sturdy and safe! Extremely important and useful!
- sleeping bag slippers
My words can't say
enough good about these slippers! Very light and warm, extremely comfortable!
One of the most comfortable
wearing that I had on Broad Peak. Very good!
- bottle
sleeves
ABSOLUTE
WILDERNESS
- absolute
wilderness meal
Chilli Con Carne and
Scrambled Eggs were very tasty, no need of any extra bowl - just hot water. Extremely
useful and practical food in outdoor, would recommend for every climber and to
any extreme conditions.
ACID
MOUNTAIN
-
acid mountain t-shirts
Acid Mt t-shirt
is very stylish and comfortable. On top of it, it is very elegant thanks to
original pattern and it is suitable for any occasion. I was lucky, that their
t-shirt fit perfectly on me.
BH
- BH bike
Very nice looking
bicycle in good quality, very suitable for cycling off the roads.
EU POWER
- Sunny bag
Very stylish
design, light and practical bag, suitable for city walks and to charge your
electric gadgets while walking.
- mini powerbank Move Power 2600 mAh
Very stylish,
light and practical, easy managable; very practical powerbank for emergency
charging of your mobile.
- solar Powerbank 30000 mAh
Possible charging
of two devices at the same time, good capacity, nice design, suitable
combination of solar panel with powerbank; very practical in the nature, where
no power is available.
- solar charger 500 mAh
Extra light,
practical and stylish charger; could suit as a fashionable key ring.
FENIX
- Brunton solarroll 14W
Very stylish, light
and extremely practical panel thanks to possibility to roll it, very effective
when it is sunny weather. Suitable also for extreme conditions and again - very
practical!
- solar panel Solaris 2W
Very stylish, light,
practical and relatively powerful panel. Very practical for travelling in
nature where no power is available and where you need to charge small electric
devices.
- powerbank Brunton Revolt 9000
Powerbank with
extremely good capacity but still small size. The best powerbank I have ever
had! Very practical and fully functional even in extreme conditions; suitable
for outdoor sports too.
- Primus thermo 1l
Light and stylish
thermo with two different closing systems. Very practical, easy managable and
suitable even for extreme conditions.
GARMIN
- navigation system GPS
Very valuable piece of
equipment! Recording of the trail was very precise and even altitude meter was
very accurate. Very good satellite signal receiver (always more than 3
satellites located). Extremely useful and one
of the best GPS systems!
- watches Garmin Fenix 3
Very stylish watch with big display, very easy and accessible menu, nice night light, showing graphs. Very good looking and very useful watch!
- watches Garmin Fenix 3
Very stylish watch with big display, very easy and accessible menu, nice night light, showing graphs. Very good looking and very useful watch!
- action camera Garmin Virb
Nice design, very sturdy (it fell 7m on rocks and still no scratch and working!), small but still handy, GPS location for each photo = perfect(!) very nice camera for action sports, extremely useful with GPS location info!
Nice design, very sturdy (it fell 7m on rocks and still no scratch and working!), small but still handy, GPS location for each photo = perfect(!) very nice camera for action sports, extremely useful with GPS location info!
JERKY
- dry meat Jerky
Surprisingly very
good meat taste, nice sachets design, wide range of meats, easily chuwinable,
accurately salty and including tooth-pick in sachets! Tasty, healty and very
suitable food supplement (even for hard workouts).
KATHMANDU
- tent North Star XT
Very stable even in strong wind, spacious enough for 2 people, spacious 'storage' area, not very heavy and good tent for extreme conditions!
Very stable even in strong wind, spacious enough for 2 people, spacious 'storage' area, not very heavy and good tent for extreme conditions!
- rain coat Breccia Jacket
Very stylish and good looking, good quality (breathable but waterproof), light and not bulky. Overall, the best rain jacket I have ever had! Waterproof but not getting sweaty - perfectly breathable!
Very stylish and good looking, good quality (breathable but waterproof), light and not bulky. Overall, the best rain jacket I have ever had! Waterproof but not getting sweaty - perfectly breathable!
- camel bag
Good quality materials, easy drinking, good capacity, very handy and easy to manipulate.
Good quality materials, easy drinking, good capacity, very handy and easy to manipulate.
- fire flint
Extremely useful in high altitudes when lighter or matches don't work. Extremely useful for mountaineering!
Extremely useful in high altitudes when lighter or matches don't work. Extremely useful for mountaineering!
- duffel bag Tanker 90l Cargo
Nice design and very strong bag, spacious , good quality material, very useful for taking a lot of staff (ropes, clothes, sleeping bag etc).
Nice design and very strong bag, spacious , good quality material, very useful for taking a lot of staff (ropes, clothes, sleeping bag etc).
- first aid kit
Light and very handy for the first aid in the mountains!
Light and very handy for the first aid in the mountains!
- sandals Teva Toachi
Nice design, light, good quality, don't scratch the skin, easily adjustable and fast putting on feet. Very stylish and good quality sandals! Useful to put on after wearing all day heavy climbing boots!
Nice design, light, good quality, don't scratch the skin, easily adjustable and fast putting on feet. Very stylish and good quality sandals! Useful to put on after wearing all day heavy climbing boots!
OUTFONE
-
Ranger phone S17
Robust design for
rough environment, surprisingly good signal reception, good battery life,
modern and updated software. Extremely useful and practical phone, surprisingly
reliable with quite good signal reception, very practical for rough environment
and extreme conditions.
SONY
- tablet Xperia Z4
Very stylish
design, simple and easy manipulating, good camera, simple software, possible to
use also instead of mobile. Very suitable for everyday use and communication
via internet. Because of small size and its' lightness, it is easy to take it
with you everywhere.
- mobile Xperia Z3
Very stylish,
light and practical thanks to slim design; simple and easy manipulating, very
good camera, highly inteligent and easy software. Simply - the best mobile I
have ever had! Very practical and multifunctional mobile.
- camera Exmor R
Very stable picture,
high quality video and photos, many good functions. Practical camera for
dynamic recording (extreme sports, bicycling, skiing etc).
SUPER
LUBE
-
lubricant -40°C
It worked without any
problems even in extreme conditions and I didn't have any problems with moving
parts on my bicycle at all! Perfect lubricant!
TENDON
- ropes Tendon Lowe
Nice and stylish
pattern and easily recognizable colours, reliable and light ropes. Very
practical and safe for any wall climbing.
- asscender Kong
Simple
manipulating and stylish design. Very practical asscender even for extreme
climbing.
- sling Dynaprot 10 Y
Nice and stylish
pattern, easily recognizable colours, safe and practical especially for via
ferrata climbing; suitable even for extreme conditions and for highaltitude
climbing.
- Dyneema 120cm
Stylish design
and easily recognizable colours, reliable and very practical sling for any
climbing.
TOTAL OUTDOOR
- avalanche probes Pieps
Easily putting
together and very practical when climbing across avalanche fields.
- snow shovels Pieps
Simple, light and
very practical shovels not only for avalanches, but also for building tent
place or even as anchor for tent during strong winds. Very practical tool!
- avalanche beacons Pieps
Easily operating device
with nice design, light and recognizable coulour, reliable. The most usefull
and most practical avalanche tool! Suitable for even extreme conditions with
low temperatures.
- avalanche bag Pieps
Stylish design,
high quality material and very important avalanche tool. Suitable for one/two
days tours.
TREKLAND
- high-altitude boots Millet (Everest Summit)
High quality
materials, very warm boots, snow-sleeves not necessary as boots are high
enough, possible use of inner boot apart as slippers. The best expedition boots
on market for their best quality and for any extreme conditions or any high
mountain climbing!
After the endless journey full of strict security controls at airports, 5 minutes delays to miss connecting busses or trains and neverending walks with my huge luggage, I finally got back home!
The story about our (un)succesfull expedition, falls of my both climbing partners, broken bike, avalanche accident, stitches on a head, breaking the Guinness World Record and more interesting details will be published on my website in short 1-2 weeks.
Surely, I will also add some photos and videos from our climbing...
The story about our (un)succesfull expedition, falls of my both climbing partners, broken bike, avalanche accident, stitches on a head, breaking the Guinness World Record and more interesting details will be published on my website in short 1-2 weeks.
Surely, I will also add some photos and videos from our climbing...
And of course, big THANK YOU to all of you for your support and for following our expedition until now!
2015-08-13 On the way back to Islamabad
Not working satellite phone cut us completely from outside world and civilization! Neither Broad Peak, neither Guinness Record was conquered due to bad weather and lot of snow..
Even endless 5 nights in Camp 2 didn't bring so wished sunny window...
On the top of everything the descending brought a very bad looking 300 m fall of my other climbing partner.. (I will get all details as soon as I am back at computer in Slovakia...)
At the moment we are still all of us on the way to Islamabad in good health (except my painfully deep cough cought at Camp 2).
2015-07-29 Snowstorm made me to come back to the Base camp
Nathan has 4 stitches on his head and his lost rucksack with passport and other important stuff keeps his spirit down... I climbed Camp 2 but came down because of snowstorm which hits the slope. Now I am waiting in the Base camp for better weather.
2015-07-24 My friend Nathan rolled 30 meters down the slope
The Camp 1 was both extremely difficult and unfortunate. On very steep slope my friend Nathan rolled 30 meters down and injured his head. He is back in the Base camp. Bad weather is coming.
2015-07-14 We got stuck on the road because of a landslide
Only 30 kms from Skardu and after 30 hours of rough journey we got stuck on the road because a landslide ahead of us took half of the road away and another half was blocked with big rocks.
In complete darkness I managed to climb over the landslide (and through the water) with 25 kgs heavy box on my shoulders and our agency boss picked my upboss by car on the other side. I got in the bed at 3AM in the morning.
2015-07-13 Taking the bus to Skardu
Picking up the luggage took me 2.5 hours and exactly 15 different authorities to sign my delivery papers. And I had to pay a lot of money to airport different cargo offices... but finally I got all my important staff from Slovakia and package is with me. I did the last minute shopping for trekking shoes (the Katmandu shoes are too big for me) and then I could finally take the bus.
The first bus didn't take me even with the valid ticket so I waited another 5 hours for another one which took me to Skardu.
2015-07-12 My struggle continues
My struggle continued this day again. Even going to the airport to the Pakistan airline headquarters didn't help me to get the flight ticket. I was told that the flights for next two days are cancelled because of bad weather. I didn't know what to do so I decided to take 30 hours bus ride on rough Karakoram highway.
2015-07-11 In Islamabad
Unfortunately, I didn't manage to pick up my Cargo package from the airport today, because of the simple reason - their office is closed on weekends.
High altitudes boots, Sony electronics, ropes and many more important things stopped me from traveling with my team together. I have to stay in Islamabad until Tuesday when I hopefully will catch everyday morning flight and join my team again.
2015-07-10 A flight to Pakistan
I had a flight to Pakistan today. Many thanks to all for your support and encouragement!
2015-06-25 Elektronic devices from Sony Mobile are already at home!
Thank you very much for the prompt delivery of high-end electronic devices for our expedition - straight from Sony Mobile! They sent to me (only in a few days time!) waterproof Sony action camera, the thinnest and lightest tablet in the world: Xperia Z4 and waterproof mobile phone Xperia Z3. All three things will greatly increase our comfort on the expedition! We appreciate such generous help! Thank you!
2015-06-26 A watch and a camera from world brand Garmin
One of the world's best brands in navigation systems, watches and outdoor cameras Garmin just fell into our way by lucky accident, when the BH bike shop owner (also a distributor of Garmin things) put a word for us! Thanks to his help will our expedition get an extraordinary watch with altimeter and an outdoor camera. And on top of it - they will also help us with altitude meter device, that is required by Guinness World of Records. Many thanks!
2015-06-24 Pakistan Visa
It was not easy, but finally I succeeded - I got Pakistan visa on Wednesday! I had to take 1.5 hours flight to the nearest consulate in China and I had to submit tonnes of certificates, statements, copies and scans, which were finally "not sufficient" even after 4 previous calls and confirmations to the consulate... Finally everything went well and perhaps the only positive side of it was, that Slovaks do not have to pay anything for the visa...
2015-06-23 Sponsor - OUTFONE
After a long development, we will get the latest telephone model by Outfone - RANGERFONE S17 that's is still not even on sale, and has a radio range of 6-8 km! Thanks to Outfone great efforts, we have managed to find solutions for extremely low temperatures and high humidity, that are awaiting for us on Braod Peak. Thanks to Outfone, all three of us will be in constant connection. Moreover, there is also high possibility for cooperation even in the future events and I will personally get the phones already this Friday!! Thank you very much!
2015-06-22 Sony Mobile headquarters agreed on generous help for our expedition!
I was sincere happy to learn, that the leading electronic company - Sony Mobile - will support us with their high-end electronics: a tablet, a mobile phone and a camera! Thanks to their devices, we will be able to stay in touch with our families and also post our news straight from Broad Peak slopes. Thank you for your great support!
2015-06-21 Training XX
We had another public holiday in China, so I decided to drive to six hours distant mountains. And there I had my toughest Broad Peak training ever! 1500 meters up on very steep slopes and the same 1500 meters down, 32 kg heavy rucksack, all day strong sun - all that lowered my strength to zero in long 10 hours hiking. Even 5.5 liters of water that I drunk through the whole climb, was unable to restore my strength and I didn't managed to climbed to the mountain top (my personal summit stayed 500m bellow...) My heavy rucksack let me feel bruises on my hips again and as usually, it tested my knees the most on the descent. However, those are the moments when I realize how hard the Broad Peak climb might be and how hard I should prepare for it.
Just three days later, I went for running around my city and I experienced the most torrential rain ever! Water flooded all streets just in minutes (so I could not see sidewalk curbs at all) and I run in ankle-deep water! Perhaps, because the rain was still warm, it didn't stop me from continuing running and I even broke my personal record! ;-)
2015-06-17 SuperLube - lubricant is already with me in China
Very important for the bike in extreme conditions is proper lubricating of all moving parts. And exactly the unfreezing lubricant by SuperLube will perfectly help me in this. I am therefore very thankful that it was just delivered to me from America and very soon I will use it for all parts on my bike. Thanks again for this extremely practical support!
Climbing Broad Peak will even require some technical climbing. Therefore, I had decided, that this weekend I would give my back a rest and I would train rock climbing instead. Only 1 hour drive from my apartment is quite nice rocky area which I didn't know about before (otherwise I will be there every second weekend!). I called my friends and we had very nice climbing day finished by BBQ in the nature..and yes, some beers too! Most importantly, I practiced my climbing skills again and tested some of my gear and ropes...
2015-06-11 A big change in our team
Unfortunately, this time I have some bad news too. Most likely (and now almost certainly) Andras will not join our expedition any more. After many months of planning we came to the point, when we suppose to pay deposit to our agency in Pakistan. We haven't heard anything from Andras since... We will miss his experience and contacts in Pakistan. Fortunately he was immediately replaced by Dimitar - our new member from Bulgaria.
Dimitar Kamburov is 36 years old Bulgarian working as an exploration geologist mostly around Africa, having special passion for volcanoes. Has successfully climbed peaks in USA, Chile, Tanzania, Peru, Indonesia, Bolivia. Success in this expedition would open another page of challenging high altitude projects.
2015-06-09 Sponsorship with BH successfully agreed
I am very pleased that we have came to a successful agreement on the bike sponsorship with BH shop. This really cool shop will even help me to adjust their excellent bike so it is as light as possible! And even more, they will dress me into their BH cycling dress! I am extremely grateful for all their help! Thank you
2015-06-06 Training XVIIIProhibiting mountains entry to all public (as the most effective fire-fighting precaution...) made me to plan my route in very detail in advance so I could slip into the forest around the public gate. Fortunately, I succeeded and so I could train this Saturday with my 32 kg backpack again. This time I wrapped all water bottles into two sleeping bags and my back was extremely thankful to that idea. The effort, in the baking sun and high temperatures (which forced me to drink 4 liters of water within 6 hours!) rewarded me with the views from the 2,300 m high hill. There is still something good about the ban - I didn't meet a single soul during the all day...
2015-06-06 SuperLube - super low temperature lubricant for our bicycles
SuperLube, as a manufacturer of high quality lubricants and low temperature greases, will provide us with a lubricant, which makes the bicycle operate even at -40 degrees Celsius! Without SuperLube help, our bicycles would change into useless metal pieces impossible to move. Thank you very much for the important help!
2015-06-05 A package from TOTAL OUTDOOR
On Friday, I was happy to receive pleasant news that the avalanche equipment from TotalOutdoor (distributor of outdoor brands for Slovakia and Czech Republic) has already arrived to my home address. That means, that our expedition will be equipped with the avalanche beacon, probe, spades and even avalanche backpack! Many thanks for borrowing us all these things that can save our lives!
2015-06-04 A camera for recording our ascent by RICOH
I am very pleased that we were able to make contact with RICOH (manufacturer of cameras, sport optics, office equipment and security systems), which offered us a camera to record our progress on slopes of Broad Peak (also one of the Guinness Book of Records requirements)! We are still in close contact with RICOH and we hope in a successful agreement soon. Thank you very much in advance!
2015-05-31 Training XVII
My back had started to complain straight from the beginning and mentioned that only two weeks ago, I had promised him rest (after a super hard training day). Even my counter-argument that, the time of the expedition is dangerously coming soon, did not help and the back grumbled all the way. So I tried to completely ignore it and instead, to enjoy the beautiful surrounding lake and mountain views. Not conquered hill (also from a training day, two years ago) remained untouched again. I was coming back home with entirely sweaty clothes, broken walking stick and completely exhausted. Well, not all days are lucky and easy...
2015-05-31 Bike sponsor BH from a Chinese bicycle shop!
After many unsuccessful attempts to find bike sponsors in Slovakia and Europe, as a last attempt I have asked personally in some bicycle shops around my apartment in Kunming. To my nice surprise I probably have found one! It is a bike shop, which is a distributor of high quality brand - BH bycicles. Their offer comes at the right moment and I hope that it will end in a successful deal. Thank you very much in advance!
2015-05-23 Training XVIThe starting day of our expedition is coming soon and therefore it is time to buy tickets and arrange transport of my gear to Pakistan. That's why I had decided to cycle to a remote airport straight through the mountains as a part of my training (I must also say, that my back needed to relax a bit from my last week overweight training...). A beautiful mountain road finishes directly in front of the airport, so I managed to arrange cargo directly at the airport counter, even with my muddy bicycle... :-) And I think that a 54 km ride over the hills was a good training too!
2015-05-19 Cooperation with Sony Mobile in Slovakia
We are very pleased that we have got in contact with one of the best electronic company in the world - with Sony Mobile. In the case of a successful agreement, Sony would support us with a tablet (to communicate with the world), a mobile (for communication with our families) and a camera (to record our progress on slopes of Broad Peak). We believe in a successful agreement soon and therefore we would like to thank in advance for their great support!
2015-05-18 A bicycle from Rock Machine
A possible bike support from Rock Machine (a producer of bikes that can endure anything and that can offer as much freedom and excitement as possible) comes at the right moment! The sponsor of a lightweight bike, which could be taken to the summit of Broad Peak, is coming in the last minute. I hope in a soon and successful deal! Many thanks in advance!
2015-05-15 An interview with City Television Ruzomberok
The interview, which we recorded a week ago for the MTR has become alive on their web site. You will find there not only details of the expedition, but also information about how I got to China, if my family support my mission, what should be done to meet requirements of a Guinness record and how I got my first frostbites... You can find the interview here.
2015-05-16 Training XV
After the last mountain training with my bike, last weekend I went to much closer hills instead. In the heat of very hot and sunny day, I was trying to prove that the training for 8000 peak should not be easy... My first plan was ruined by guardians of the mountains - that means, by Chinese 'green guards' who crossed my way and banned me from going up because of a "high fire risk". Even the attempt to sneak around them failed and so, I had to move 20km away to the place where I have trained two years ago in a preparation for the 7500 meters high Muzstagh Ata. All the time, I could not figure out why that day was unusually difficult for me. Back at home, while having a shower, I had discovered that I had bloody bruises on my hips and also on my back... Very curiously, I weighted my backpack and it had 44 kg(!) instead of planned 30kg... I will be more careful with weight next time for sure..!
After the last mountain training with my bike, last weekend I went to much closer hills instead. In the heat of very hot and sunny day, I was trying to prove that the training for 8000 peak should not be easy... My first plan was ruined by guardians of the mountains - that means, by Chinese 'green guards' who crossed my way and banned me from going up because of a "high fire risk". Even the attempt to sneak around them failed and so, I had to move 20km away to the place where I have trained two years ago in a preparation for the 7500 meters high Muzstagh Ata. All the time, I could not figure out why that day was unusually difficult for me. Back at home, while having a shower, I had discovered that I had bloody bruises on my hips and also on my back... Very curiously, I weighted my backpack and it had 44 kg(!) instead of planned 30kg... I will be more careful with weight next time for sure..!
2015-05-15 Interview recording for MTR
Last Friday, City Television Ruzomberok recorded an interview with me about our expedition and other interesting details connected with our preparations. Watch MTR cannal from 18. to 24.May and you can find out even more information that is on this website! Thank you for publicity and your interest!
2015-05-13 New team member!
We are delighted to welcome our new climber Dimitar from Bulgaria, who joined us at the last minute! First time, he approached us already at the beginning of February, but because of holiday problems and not fixed expedition costs, he had to called off his participation at that time. Therefore, we are even more happy that he will join us this time! Sudden change of job situation, gave him necessary holiday time to climb Broad Peak with us! We are sure that Dimitar will bring more experience to our team and also more faith to the successful expedition. Welcome back to Broad Peak 2015 Dimitar! :-)
2015-05-12 Overboots from FORTY BELOW are already on the way
Our good sponsor 40Below has made overboots for us precisely tailored to the size of our mountain boots. On top of their generosity they enclosed warm sleeping bag slippers and thermos covers too! The package has arrived to my friend's address in New York and will soon be on the way to Pakistan. Thank you very much indeed!
2015-05-13 New team member!
We are delighted to welcome our new climber Dimitar from Bulgaria, who joined us at the last minute! First time, he approached us already at the beginning of February, but because of holiday problems and not fixed expedition costs, he had to called off his participation at that time. Therefore, we are even more happy that he will join us this time! Sudden change of job situation, gave him necessary holiday time to climb Broad Peak with us! We are sure that Dimitar will bring more experience to our team and also more faith to the successful expedition. Welcome back to Broad Peak 2015 Dimitar! :-)
2015-05-12 Overboots from FORTY BELOW are already on the way
Our good sponsor 40Below has made overboots for us precisely tailored to the size of our mountain boots. On top of their generosity they enclosed warm sleeping bag slippers and thermos covers too! The package has arrived to my friend's address in New York and will soon be on the way to Pakistan. Thank you very much indeed!
2015-05-11 Mountaineering extreme boots from TREKLAND are at home!
One of the most important parts of my equipment is already at home. Proper and very good boots can not only save my feet from frostbites but in the end also my life! And the brand Millet is certainly good guarantee of quality! The package has arrived exactly as Trekland had promised and shoes made me genuinely happy. Thank you very much again!
One of the most important parts of my equipment is already at home. Proper and very good boots can not only save my feet from frostbites but in the end also my life! And the brand Millet is certainly good guarantee of quality! The package has arrived exactly as Trekland had promised and shoes made me genuinely happy. Thank you very much again!
2015-05-01 Training XIV
There was another holiday in China, which offered me full four days for training in the mountains. This time I had not hesitated and I tried what it really is to carry bicycle on your shoulders all the way up to the snowy peaks. Camping equipment, food and drinks for 4 days, plus my heavy bike (which I will definitely not take to the Broad Peak!) made my already first meters extremely difficult! By the end of the day my back hurt so much, that it did not let me sleep in one position for more than a few minutes. Therefore, the next day, we decided to build a base camp, from where we started our day hikes with significantly lighter loads. And it was on the upper slopes where the Sun taught us a lesson - it sunburned our faces into pink colors and my eyes burnt to bloody-red color too. Neither of us had predicted that in few hours we would reach 4200m snowy slopes that were perfectly reflecting the Sun...and on top of it I had forgotten my sun glasses in the tent! And therefore, I took back home not only heavy bike, back pain, sunburned nose and bloody eyes, but especially a lot of new experience and good lessons, some of them immortalized on the photographs. After all, you can check them here too...
2015-05-01 T-shirts and an article from ACIDMOUNTAIN
Last week I was pleased with the package of nice T-shirts from acidMountain, that was delivered to my home address. Thus, it is 100% certain that we will maintain the high clothing standard on the mountains too! And on top of T-shirts, acidMountain also offered to present us by short stories on their social network web-page. Thank you very much!
2015-04-28 Pre-expedition interview on City Television Ružomberok
City Television Ružomberok asked us for an interview, in which I would talk about our expedition plans, about previous climbs and the mountain experience. The interview will be recorded very soon and will be broadcasted before our ascend to Broad Peak. Thank you for your interest and support!
2015-04-28 An article at OUTDOORFILMY.sk
The website www.outdoorfilmy.sk, dedicated to outdoor films and news, has published the introductory article about our expedition. We are glad, that you will be able to read all the news about our expedition also on their website. Thank you!
2015-04-27 Training XIII
Too many personal obligations prevented me from visiting some mountains again and therefore I did only 'an urban' training in the city. I started shortly after midnight and if I made it easier by the flat terrain, I made it more difficult by rucksack weight. The night training was exactly the same as the previous ones and maybe the only exception was a sight of women who wash cars (with water from the nearby small river) just between midnight and 6am in the morning.. After two exhausting hours, I finished my training very un-sporty way: by joining a night BBQ on the street...;-(
2015-04-24 A delivery from FENIX
My sister told me some good news - solar panels from Fenix - distributor of outdoor brands - are already at home! On top of these exceptionally powerful panels, I have also got a stylish thermos. That means, that not only our electronics will be full of energy, but also I will be filled by hot tea... Many thanks!
2015-04-24 Power bag from EU-POWER
After a week in which almost nothing happened (regarding our expedition) I was nicely surprised that EU-POWER not only gave us a power-bag with solar panel, but also very strong power-bank to store collected energy! That will certainly help us to stay charged! Thank you a lot!
2015-04-16 An article at OUTDOORFILMY.sk
This week a new web portal join a row of our media partners. Their website www.outdoorfilmy.sk
- the world of outdoor films - is full of very interesting outdoor articles, videos and movies. We are very pleased that they have approached us and so you could find news about our expedition on their portal too. Thanks!
2015-04-16 An article at 8000.sk
We are very pleased that the website dedicated to Slovak mountaineering sports - www.8000.sk - has included in their headlines a report about our expedition. Mountains and climbing enthusiasts will be regularly informed about our preparations and progress before the expedition and also on slopes of Broad Peak. Thank you for your interest!
2015-04-04 Training XII
This time my duties had not allowed me to go too far from my home and I went to almost the nearest mountain which I can also see from my apartment. A rainy night before turned the forest road into muddy slide, which was fortunately gradually dried during warm, but not very sunny day. Mostly monotonous road ended in a nice hill covered by thousands of stones. On top of one of them I quench my thirst by beer that I also carried on my shoulders. However, my back is still remembering the 32 kg heavy backpack even after few days now...
2015-04-10 Sponsor FENIX
It seems that I am quite lucky as another sponsor Fenix - distributor of several outdoor brands - is going to help our expedition by renting some solar panels of different kinds. And on top of it - some hot tea will keep me warm from their thermos too! Thank you for their generous help!
2015-04-08 Webpage STAFF.co.nz has published an article about us
An article about Nathan's plans and our expedition can be found on the website Staff.co.nz dedicated to news from New Zealand. We are very pleased that Nathan's country has also found interest in our plans for this coming summer! Thank you.
2015-04-08 An article in a magazine People & Mountains
A bimonthly magazine People & Mountains - full of interesting articles for hikers - has published an introductory article about our expedition. It will also regularly inform about our climb so you can find reports about our progress in this magazine with full of excellent articles. Thank you for your support!
2015-04-08 Sponsor FORTY BELOW
Our new sponsor 40 Below - manufacturer of equipment for the extreme expeditions - will contribute to us by very warm expedition over boots. My toes have suffered frostbites twice and therefore it is very likely that it could happen again. With the over boots from 40Below we would not have to be worry about it at all. We are still in contact with them and I believe that we will come to an agreement very soon. Thank you!
2015-04-08 Sponsor EU-POWER
A distributer (but also service and installation provider) of energy systems for renewable energy - that is our new sponsor EU-POWER, which will provide us solar panels. Those will never leave us without electricity for our radios, satellite phone or laptop. We are even more happy, because it means extremely important connection with our Base camp, that can even save our lives in extreme conditions! Thank you very much!
2015-04-05 Delivery from TENDON
After coming back from very nice weekend, some great news were waiting for me at home - delivered package with high quality ropes from Tendon. The pakcage also included via-ferrata and rope ascender! Of course I am very happy for all this equipment and I can not wait to test them all! Thank you very much!
2015-04-04 Training XI
While there was Easter in Europe, in China it was Tomb Sweeping Festival. However, in both cases, it meant a bit longer weekend. I went for three days hiking to the nearest mountains, where some peaks are rising above 4,000 meters level. In this thin air I tested my breathing abilities as much as my physical preparation. On the first day we had climbed for long nine hours until we got to a place with amazing views where we stayed camping. Beautiful sunrise kicked us out from our warm sleeping bags, straight into 1 degree cold air outside, but the view was worth of it! The second day we managed to climb to the highest mountain - Jiaozi Peak / 4220 m / and then I climbed other two 4000-s peaks solo. The last one gave me really hard time, since I had to climb over some exposed sharp ridge with steep /hundreds of meters deep/ slopes on both sides. A reward for it was completely flat top with a wonderful place for a tent and with even more beautiful views. But the following morning I could not even see more than 20 meters ahead... A gray cloud covered the whole mountain and snow started to slash my face with painfully hard snowflakes. Going back through the sharp ridge was crazy... The strong wind was furiously and unpredictably pushing me from one side to another and my heavy backpack didn't make it easier for me either! I tested not only my balance, but mostly my weak courage and good luck... Even that, it was still good training and one of the most beautiful trips in Chinese mountains.
2015-04-03 Sponsor - OUTFONE
I am glad to bring another sponsor OUTFONE - the producer of anti-communication equipmnet. In our case Outfone will support us with few Ragged Smart Phones - RANGERFONE S15! This device includes not only two way radio but also compass and GPS navigation system! So now, we will stay connected and not get lost. Thank you a lot!
2015-04-02 Sponsor - TOTAL OUTDOOR
A very important sponsor partner will be Total Outdoor - exclusive distributor of different outdoor brands for Slovakia and Czech Republic. They will rent us very important avalanche equipment that can save our lives! In that case, we can never adequately thank them enough - many thanks anyway!
2015-04-02 An interview about the expedition on Radio FM
Today was brodcasted the interview about our expedition on Radio FM. You can listen it also here.
FM Radio will continue to monitor our expedition news regularly so to find out more, please stay tuned with them!
2015-04-01 Radio Slovakia expressed their interest too
We are very glad that Radio Slovakia expressed their interest to inform about our expedition. I am look forward to give them an interview not just before the climb, but also afterwards, when they would welcome me in their studio personally. Stay tuned with Radio Slovakia to learn about our expedition even more...
2015-04-01 An article about the expedition
Nathan has managed to publish an article for Nelson regional news website - NelsonLive.co.nz. The article is full of interesting information about our expedition and Nathan explains all our goals and problems what we can come accross while climbing Broad Peak. Please read it here.
2015-03-28 Training X
My two Chinese friends dragged me to a 10 kilometer cross-country running this last weekend. The route was quite hilly and led through forests, villages and along nice lakes. But I didn't have time at all to enjoy surrounding scenery, as the first runners escalated in a pretty fast pace. From the overall - a bit more than 150 participants, I finished on a very satisfying 13th place. But the next day, I walk up the stairs like a pregnant woman - my thighs has changed to stones...:-)
2015-03-27 JERKY - the first delivery of dried meat
My sister told me happy news today: I have received a first package from Jerky - full of dried meat as a food supplement for our expedition. Thank you and I can't wait to taste it!
2015-03-26 Kathmandu - Sponsorship winner announcement
Kathmandu has officially confirmed the sponsorship for our expedition on their Facebook page. At the same time, they confirmed to provide us with all the gear that we had initially asked them for. Once more time - thank you very much!
2015-03-26 The first Skype talk of the whole team
Finally, we have
managed to arrange conference call of all team members (including the next potential
climber from Australia) via Skype. We confirmed our arrival dates to
Pakistan, made important decisions about what, who and what equipment shall
each member brings; and in the end, we confirmed the visa procedure and climbing
permits...
The time of
expedition is really coming soon!
Today we were recording a telephone interview for FM radio.
I had to described our expedition, what we can expect, how do we train for it, how the team looks like, what risks we will undertake and what everything do we have to do for to cycling record to be accepted by Guinness book of records. The interview should be broadcasted on FM radio some day this week in the afternoon between 14-18 o'clock. Thank you for all your interest and support!
I had to described our expedition, what we can expect, how do we train for it, how the team looks like, what risks we will undertake and what everything do we have to do for to cycling record to be accepted by Guinness book of records. The interview should be broadcasted on FM radio some day this week in the afternoon between 14-18 o'clock. Thank you for all your interest and support!
2015-03-21 Training IX
One of the main attractions in Kunming - Dragon Gate (nice temple in a high cliff) - became the scene of my last workout. The first two hundred altitude meters, I had ascent on a very steep slope. But only all the way to the point where we were surprisingly asked for an admission fee (in the middle of the mountain)! This was the point, where I turned with my friend back, to head for another location. That was a nearby dam it the hills. While my buddy choosed to have a rest next to water, I made my way through the valley to the outlying slopes. Those kilograms in my backpack were killing me more than the terrain itself. However, still much better training than the one in the city for the last two weeks.
2015-03-18 Sponsor - JERKY
Thank you to a new sponsor we will not be hungry on the slopes of Broad Peak. We are very pleased that JERKY - a shop with dried meat - will support us with their healthy and energetic meal.
And
we would have many choices: beef, pork, chicken or turkey meat! Thank
you and we are already looking forward to have dinner in a tent! http://www.jerky.cz
2015-03-17 Training VIII
Again, because of very busy weekend, I had to do a midnight workout as a punishment for not following the training schedule in the mountains.
This time, I went out into the streets already at 22 o'clock with my faithful friend - 30 kg rucksack. I dragged my 'friend' around the town for a bit more than two hours and learnt my lesson about arranging my weekend better for the next time...! Good night.
2015-03-17 Sponzor - ABSOLUTE WILDERNESS
Nathan has managed to get support from Absolute wilderness - a producer of high performance meals for outdoor athletes and enthusiasts.
All their meals are freeze dried, which is considered the best method because it preserves the natural flavours, nutrients and shape of the food. The end product is super light weight, packed full of flavour and quick to rehydrate. Thank you a lot! http://www.absolutewilderness.co.nz/
2015-03-16 Sponsor - TREKLAND
One of the leading Slovakian outdoor shop is becoming our next potential sponsor!
It is Trekland - a shop with everything what you could possibly need when climbing or camping in the mountains!
I am still in contact with them and in case of successful agreement, they will support me with one of the most important part of my equipment - highaltitude expedition boots by Millet. Thank you very much in advance and I hope in successful sponsorship! http://www.trekland.sk/
2015-03-16 Article in daily newspaper Plus1deň
2015-03-08 Interest from media
Our expedition got last week a number of attention and interest from different public media!
I was invited for an interview into 'Talks at midnight' in well known TA3 television channel, which I will visit shortly after the expedition and tell them my fresh stories from the peak.
Radio FM has also expressed their interest and they want to follow all the expedition preparation and progress in their programe Popo FM.
Mestská televízia Ružomberok will welcome me in their studios any time when I am in their city.
Radio Sever and radio Rebeca will also bring news (in their programes, and also on their website) about the preparations before the expediton, but also a detail progress on the slopes of Broad Peak.
Plus 1 day - a well known daily newspaper in Slovakia, is the first one, which has a strong interest in bringing news from our expedition in printed version.
Thank you to all mentioned media interest and I believe that news from various sources would be appreciated by all our fans...:-)
2015-03-13 Sponsor - KATHMANDU
With a great luck, my application for sponsorship from famous outdoor brand KATHMANDU was succesfull!
I have managed to complete an application just in time - before 28.2.2015 and after two weeks I have got a very great news...!
Very soon, I and Nathan (my climbing partner) will receive from Kathmandu waterproof jackets, hiking boots, two radios, 90 liters travel bags, extreme Alpine tents and sandals...
We will keep you updated on how great all this gear is and how it perform on the expedition. Thank you very much !!
www.kathmandu.co.nz
2015-03-13 Sponsor - TENDON
I am very glad that we have got attention of another sponsor - TENDON from Czech Republic - a manufacturer of high-quality ropes and climbing equipment.
They will help our expedition with two 50 meters long ropes, Y-shaped dynamic sling and one ascender for our ascent and for climbing on rocky parts of Broad Peak. Thank you a lot!
www.mytendon.com
2015-03-10 Training VII
Because of my busy schedule I did not get to the mountains last week. Therefore, unwillingly, I had decided to do 'urban training' instead. As an extreme, I started to head for city streets only 15 minutes before midnight.
All passersby looked at me with glances worthy of homeless people, who under the weight of collected belongings are seeking some refuge for another sleepless night.
In my case, the "collected belongings" represented big backpack with 30 liters of water in plastic bottles...
Finally at home, and after three hours of brisk walking, I could not properly distinguish if I was really taking shower, or I was laying in my bed and all this was just a dream...
Good night!
2015-03-13 Sponsor - ACIDMOUNTAIN
I am very pleased that my first sponsor became acidMountain - an online shop with stylish T-shirts, printed and designed by a young enthusiastic team! Besides a nice T-shirt, acidMountain will also provide me some financial aid! Thank you so much!
http://acidmountain.net/
2015-03-09 SNOWLAND - an agency to help us organize our expedition in Pakistan
Finally, we have chosen an agency in Pakistan - Snowland!
Snowland will not only assist us to arrange all the necessary permits and visas, but also will lead us to the Base camp, where they will provide us food and shelter...
http://snowland.com.pk/
2015-03-02 The Guinness book of records
After six weeks, we have finally hear back from the Guinness Book of Records. Our attempt to cycle at high altitude has been registered and we have got all the information on how our attempt should be properly confirmed and recorded.
Just out of curiosity, the conditions includes: an attempt must verified by 3 witnesses(!); we need to ride on bikes (in the stated altitude) at least for 20 meters; we must use a mountain bike; a member of record must carry his bicycle without any assistance of another person etc.etc.
It will be a difficult task...!
http://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/highest-altitude-(cycling)
2015-02-26 Tréning VI
2015-02-22 Tréning V
2014-12-15 Tréning IV
2014-11-02 Tréning III
2014-10-27 Tréning II
2014-09-09 Tréning I